12 stops on the Colombo gastronomic tour

Co-author: Madushi
Location: Colombo, Western Province
Date of visit: November 2010

The hallmark of any great city is its cuisine. The Colombo gastronomic experience, although lacking the depth of New York or London, certainly does have its fair share of top notch restaurants, cafes and bars. This post is one big shout-out to some of Colombo’s finest and to ensure I do it justice I have recruited help from my sister Madushi, a Colombo resident for 3 years.

Hangout at Barefoot Gallery & Cafe

Photo doesn't existBarefoot is a Colombo favorite with its Garden Cafe that is great for a quiet lunch away from the busy city.  Although located in Kollupitiya (Colombo 3) along Galle Road, Barefoot truly belongs in New York’s artsy West Village. Primarily a boutique showcasing hand woven fabrics by famed Sri Lankan designer, Barbara Sansoni, the outlet is home to the city’s emerging artists. Its Gallery & Cafe displays artwork of emerging Colombo artists and hosts performances in its cozy outdoor theater. They also serve some great smoothies and an excellent Spicy Chicken Mayo sandwich. The sandwich and smoothie cost me LKR 1,000 and be sure to bring your laptop and log on to the free WiFi.

Italian at Bayleaf

Who said you needed to be on the Mediterranean to taste fine Italian cuisine? Bayleaf is Colombo’s answer to that. Located on Gregory’s Road in Cinnamon Gardens (Colombo 7), Bayleaf offers some excellent fine dining Italian and is specially known for their brick-oven style thin crust pizza’s. Dinner for two with an appetizer and drinks would run you about LKR 5,000. If you are paying with American Express, be sure to ask for their special offers.

Seafood at Beach Wadiya

The Beach Wadiya located on Station Avenue along the “Marine drive” in Wellawatta (Colombo 6), has been patronized for more than 30 years by local residents and international royalty alike. The list of guests include Princess Anne of Great Britain, the Nepalese royal family, and has said to be a favorite of former President Mrs. Chandrika Bandaranaike Kumaratunga.

Initially as you walk in, the rustic decor and the staff’s gruff manners throw you off-guard — only to realize that this is the ambience the restaurant aims to achieve, that of a Hikkaduwa beach hut. Moments later, the platters of sea-food arrive with sides of white rice and garlic kankung, and all accolades of the restaurant ring loud and clear. Truly some of the best seafood ever. I’d recommend ignoring the menu, and having the waiters suggest some of their specialties. My favourite: baked crab! A meal here could run from LKR 1,500 to 2,000. Reservations are advised.

Sugary Nightcap at Cinnamon Grand Hotel

To cap off your night on the town there is no better place for a late dessert than at the foyer of the Cinnamon Grand Hotel.  Located on Galle Road in Kollupitiya (Colombo 3), Cinnamon Grand is Colombo’s premier five-star hotel. During After hours, specially on the weekends, their foyer comes abuzz with a live band playing Western and Sinhalese music at the Tea Lounge cocktail bar. Grab a table and order your favorite scotch or brandy and while it arrives walk across to the Coffee Stop and grab your favorite dessert, sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. The Coffee Stop is open till 2 am daily.

Rotti at the Commons

Located on Flower Road in Cinnamon Gardens (Colombo 7), The Commons Cafe has a great lounge atmosphere to just hang out and surf the net on your laptop. They offer a full menu complete with all your favorite caffeinated beverages, but are best known for their spin on the French Crêpe using the native Kottu Rotti. There’s a wide variety of sweet and savory rotti’s including daily specials, however my favorite is the Deviled Crab Meati. A single rotti costs about LKR 300, although not sufficient for a meal.

Watch the Game at Cricket Club

A popular local watering hole to watch the country’s favorite national pass-time is the Cricket Club, located in Kollupitiya (Colombo 3) on Queens Road (connecting Galle Road and RA De Mel Mawatha). Whichever team you are rooting for, you are certain to find your cricket match playing on TV at the Cricket Club. They offer a good bar menu and their drinks are well priced for Colombo.

High Tea at Galle Face Hotel

The oldest and most prominent hotel in Colombo is the Galle Face Hotel, located on the southern end of the Galle Face Greens. Dating back to 1864, the hotel has hosted the likes of Richard Nixon, Jawaharlal Neru and Yuri Gagarin. With such a rich and distinguished history comes also an old tradition thats a legacy of British Colonialism — High Tea. Each afternoon the hotel’s open air Veranda Restaurant serves up tea and coffee overlooking the Indian ocean, just as was done over 140 years ago. Your choice of tea or coffee along with an assortment of sweet and savory snacks will cost about LKR 800. Read more about the Galle Face Hotel in my post titled Colombo Fort & Pettah.

Coffee & Cheesecake at the Gallery Cafe by Paradise Road

Photo doesn't existAnother local favorite bringing together tasteful art with tasty cuisine is The Gallery Cafe, operated by Sri Lankan designer Shanath Fernando. You’ll find it on Alfred House Place, not far from the Cricket Club in Kollupitiya (Colombo 3), housed in what used to be the offices of famed architect Geoffrey Bawa (1919 – 2003). Bawa originally designed the house in 1961, using it as offices for his firm ER&B before bestowing it to Shanath in 1998.

The cafe offers a full menu including cocktails, but its their deserts that they are best known for. I recommend their cheesecakes thats a pretty good New York style, that along with a coffee would cost about LKR 800. As you enter the cafe you walk through its art gallery in the entranceway and courtyard pool, often displaying works by yound and striving Lankan artisists of artwork displayed throughout the entrance way and the beautiful courtyard pool.

Rice & Curry at Sambola

One of the best places I have had a tradition Sri Lankan rice & curry is at a small “clay wall and thatched roof” styled restaurant, named after the famed Sri Lankan chutney dish “Sambola”. For lunch they serve a wonderful buffet of classic Sri Lankan rice and curries as well as one of my favorites — Lamprais. Lamprais is a very traditional rice parcel packed with a variety of curry’s and wrapped within a banana leaf to capture all its flavors. A meal at “Sambola” would cost about LKR 3500 and you’ll find “Sambola” on W.A. De Silva Mawatha in Pamankada (Colombo 6).

Bite into a Sugar Burger

This local chain originally started as a street vendor selling after hour specials to party-goers at the once popular and now defunct Colombo nightclub called Sugar. Since then Sugar Burger has gone mainstream and expanded to several outlets across the city, serving arguably the best burger in Colombo. I tasted my first at the ODEL Unlimited at the De Soysa (Lipton) Circus in Colombo 7, look for Sugar Burger in the outdoor food-court up front. I recommend the Jafna Burger with “spicy jaggery sauce” and include a bottle of water, all for about LKR 400.

Hot Fudge Brownies at The Sizzle

One of my cousin Sankha’s favorite spots is The Sizzle, located on Walukarama Road in Kollupitiya (Colombo 03). As the name suggests all their meals are sizzling on a hot platter, providing quite a spectacle as they are served. I had one of their steaks which was certainly good but no comparison to a well done sirloin and not something I’d recommend a steak connoisseur. However, their desserts which also come sizzling are certainly worth a mention — their chocolate brownie and vanilla ice cream, dripped in sizzling hot chocolate fudge is spectacular. A main course costs about LKR 900 and a dessert is about LKR 350. All their dishes are Halal and no alcohol is served.

Candle-lit Dinner at Havelock Place Bungalow

Tucked away in the heart of the city in Colombo 5, the Havelock Place Bungalow located on Havelock Place is my favorite for a quiet, romantic dinner away from the hustle and bustle of the city. A cozy boutique hotel, its restaurant found next to the dimly lit pool and hidden amongst lush greenery, is a picture of peaceful serenity. They offer a lovely selection of salads, entrées and desserts which include the classic Caesar salad, a delicious risotto as well as a delightful selection of homemade ice-creams and sorbets. In addition, the standard menu is complemented by a long list of “daily specials” representing out-of-the-ordinary continental and fusion items. Be assured to try something new every-time you visit!

As described on its website, the Havelock Place Bungalow boutique hotel is truly “an oasis in the middle of a busy city”. A meal here with a dessert and a drink could cost up to LKR 2,500 per person.

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