Camping at Wasgamuwa National Park

Contributing author: Sivagnanasundaram Bhagiraj
Location: Polonnaruwa District, North-Central Province; Matale District, Central Province
Date of visit: July 2009

Bhagi and his friends explore one of the country’s historic nature treasure troves, the Wasgamuwa National Park. With significant historic value, these woodlands were originally declared as nature reserve in 1938 for its breadth of flora and fauna, and covers about 39,000 hectares in Sri Lanka’s Central and North-Central provinces.

Getting There & Park Timings

Wasgamuwa National Park is located within the Polonnaruwa and Matale Districts, about 225 km or 6 hour drive from Colombo. To get there from the Kandy-Mahiyangana Road, exit at Hasalaka and proceed via Wilgamuwa. Alternatively is coming from Matale or Polonnaruwa, you could reach via Laggala and Wilgamuwa (respectively).

This National park is open to visitors from 6 am to 6 pm and its best to visit during the months of January to March.

Historic Battlefield, Dotted with Ancient Ruins

There is historical evidence to suggest that this area had been inhabited before the birth of Christ. Yudangana Pitiya, located in the park, has been identified as an ancient battleground and stage for the historic battle in the 2nd century BC between two great Kings of the Annuradhapura Kingdom, Chola Tamil King Elara (reigned 205 – 161 BC) and Sinhala King Dutugemunu (reigned 161 – 137 BC).

Today you will find historic ruins of Chulangani Chaitya, built in the 1st century AD by King Mahadathiya Mahanaga (reigned 09 – 21 AD). Its circumference, measured at 966 feet (294 m) is larger than King Dutugemunu’s Ruwanwelisaya Chaitya located in Annuradhapura. Artifacts that have been recovered from bricks within the Chulangani Chaitya include an bowl used by the last Lankan monarch, (reigned 1798 – 1815 AC) and several bronze statues. These are now kept in the Yudangana vihara.

Further ruins found within the park are of the Malagamuwa, Wilmitiya, Dasthota irrigation tanks as well as the Kalinga Yoda Ela canal, built by the great King Maha Parakramabahu I (reigned 1153 – 1186 AC), the last Lankan monarch to have unified the country.

Wildlife & Nature Treasure Hunting

In a simple one line sentence — we went “nature” treasure hunting at Wasgamuwa. Our trip was filled with wildlife, strange looking plants, weird bugs and dramatic changes to terrain ranging from riverine forest, grasslands to wetlands .There was a moment where all of us were running wild along with its wild animals.

Wasgamuwa is famous for elephants who are known to more accustomed to the wilderness. Along with the herds of wild elephants, we were blessed to see sloth bear, leopards, sambar, spotted & barking deer, wild boar, wild buffalo and many other animals. The name of the park itself was the words “Walas Gamuwa”, “Walasa” is Sinhala for Sloth bear and “Gamuwa” means a wood.

Camping in the Wilderness

Arriving at Wasgamuwa after a 6 hour journey from Colombo, we hoped to sleep without our tents and under the bright beautiful moon. It was a thought that had intrigued me and wouldn’t have been a bad idea at all. However having brought our camping tents all the way from Colombo, we eventually set them up and did end-up sleeping with a roof over us. What an experience it was sleeping in the middle of the jungle without basic modern facilities and the Mahaweli and Amban rivers separating us from the outside world.

Having our tour guide with us at all times each and every one of us explored the land with our torch lights. It was a tremendous experience! Words cannot explain the feeling of having a wild elephant just a few meters away from where you sleep. It is truly something you need to experience on your own.

Mesmerized by The Jungle

Having had a thrilling night, we started the next day early with our cameras on hand and headed off on a safari. Of nearly 430 species of birds found in Sri Lanka about 140 reside at Wasgamuwa and although we were in a jeep, the sound of its engine was quickly drowned in by the melodic chirping of birds.

With old trees towering above you, it is hard not to be impressed by the jungle scenery interwoven with historic ruins of aqueducts and religious sites. What i found most fascinating was the historic battlefield, Yudangana Pitiya. Its landscape complete with chattering birds, wild animals, and harmless small butterflies circling your head is simply mesmerizing.

Following Elephants

What we saw quite abundantly were elephants. They were minding their own business, and us ours — i.e. following them and taking photos. After an exciting and breathtaking safari trip we headed back to camp to spend yet another night under the stars.

Swimming in the Mahaweli River

The next morning was mostly spent on swimming in the Mahaweli river and marveling some of its bizarre plants. By noon we had to make our way back to Colombo and return to our normal lives. All-in-all my camping and safari experience at Wasgamuwa has been a highlight of my trip. Yes, Wasgamuwa is one of Sri Lanka’s true beauties and is a paradise for photographers and bird watchers alike.

References: 
1. “Wasgamuwa National Park”, Wikipedia