Religion through Colombo’s lens

Location: Colombo, Western Province
Date of visit: 8th November 2010

Sri Lanka prides itself on its religious diversity. According to the most recent population census taken in 2001, the country’s demographic was recorded as 70% Buddhist, 15% Hindu, 7.5% Muslim and 7.5% Christian. Although primarily Buddhist, all groups enjoy religious freedom with all minority holidays observed publicly. As the country’s melting-pot and a mish-mash of Temples, Kovils, Mosques and Churches, Colombo provides the best example of this diversity. So I took some time to visit some of the country’s more popular religious sites.

Buddhist: Gangaramaya Temple

One of the more popular Buddhist temples in the city is Gangaramaya. Located in Slave Island (Colombo 2), near the scenic South Beira Lake, the temple has recently gained popularity under the leadership of the politically savvy head priest, Galboda Gnanissara Thera or fondly Podi Hamuduruwo. Podi Hamuduruwo has successfully positioned the temple in the center of the city’s Buddhist cultural activity especially during the February Poya (full moon) with its colorful Navam Perahera, a procession involving as many as a thousand performers rangin from elephants to dace troupes and even rivaling the Kandy Esala Perahera.

Podi Hamduruwa has also been very successful in securing generous gifts from devotees worldwide and you’ll find the eclectic collection on display at the temple. A visit to Gangaramaya is therefore quite different from the more traditional Buddhist monastery across the country — rather than the traditional temple guard stone you are greeted by samurai statues, and the images of Buddha you see range from the Sri Lankan depiction to those from Far East Asia. Also see the neat vintage car parked in the front yard and for the more curious there is Museum displaying more of these gifts, a donation is expected of LKR 10 from locals and LKR 100 from foreign visitors.

Buddhist: Seema Malakaya Meditation Center

Photo doesn't existA short walk west on Sri Jinaratana Mawatha, takes you to Sir James Peris Mawatha and the South Beira Lake. The centerpiece is the Malakaya Meditation Center, a vocational training institute operated by the Gangaramaya temple and designed by the famed Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa. The place is exceptionally stunning when lit up at night or alternatively visit during the day to enjoy views of the lake, and if lucky catch a glimpse of ducks, pelicans and other inhabitants.

Buddhist: Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara

Another noteworthy Buddhist temple is the Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara, located about 7 km northeast of Fort in Kelaniya and whose history dates back to 500 BC. Unfortunately, I couldn’t visit it this time around and shall chronicle it another time.

Hindu: Kathiresan Kovil

Photo doesn't existHindus, who are almost exclusively Tamils, are another key segment of Sri Lankan society and are represented on the country’s flag by its orange stripe. There are several important kovils in Pettah, but most notable is the Kathiresan Kovil on Sea St.

It is one of the oldest in Colombo and is dedicated to Murgan (Skanda), the god of war. The kovil is a focal point during the annual Hindu Vel festival in July/August that celebrates the triumph of Lord Murgan over evil powers. During the festival a decorative silver chariot carrying Murgan is dragged by a pair of snow-white bulls along Galle Road to the shrine at Bambalapitiya (Colombo 4).

Hindu: Other Kovils

Other important Kovils, include the Sri Kailawasanathar Swami Devasthanami located behind the Fort Railway Station on Kovil Veediya in Pettah and is rumored to be the oldest in Colombo. The Sri Ponnambalam Vanesar Kovil, built by South Indian granite, is a focus during the January harvest festival ofThai Pongal when devotees flock to it making the kovil even more colorful and lively.

Muslim: Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque

Photo doesn't existThe Muslim community is an integral part of Sri Lankan society that is also represented on the country’s flag by the green stripe. The community is further divided into three main ethnic groups — Sri Lankan Moors, Malays and Indian Muslims – each having its own history and culture. Islam is visible throughout the streets of Colombo, especially in Pettah (Colombo 11) where ancient Arab traders once settled. Read about the arrival of Arab traders to Colombo in my article “The city of Colombo”.

One of the most frequently visited buildings in Pettah is the century old Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque, also called the “Red Mosque”, built in 1909. Situated on the bustling 2nd Cross Street, the stunning red and white candy-striped mosque was designed by H. L. Saibo Lebbe and is reminiscent of Malaysia’s Masjid Jamek.

Muslim: The Grand Mosque

The single most important mosque in the country however is the Grand Mosque, located on New Moor St. in Pettah. The exact origin of the Mosque is unclear but is traced back to pre-colonial Arab traders who are today’s Moor community. Its earliest reference dates back to 1518 in a Portuguese illustration depicting it next to the original Fort. The Portuguese who competed for trade along the Sri Lankan coast with the Moors, initially tried to expel them by burning down their mosques, one rumored to be where today’s Grand Mosque stands.  Eventually the Portuguese realized it was in their interest to cooperate with the Muslim Moors and thus allowed them to rebuild their mosques.

However the Dutch persecuted the Moors once again and it was only after the British arrived in 1796 that the Muslims were given full religious freedom. Later in 1826 a Muslim architect named Muhammad Balangkaya rebuilt the small mosque on New Moor St., expanding it to be one of the largest mosques in the country and becoming what is today’s Grand Mosque.

Christian: Wolvendaal Church

Photo doesn't existChristianity was first introduced to Sri Lanka by the Portuguese in 1505, persecuting natives along the coastline with forced conversions to Roman Catholicism. Later in 1656 during the Dutch occupation of Colombo came Protestantism and it was the Roman Catholics who were persecuted. One of the most important Dutch buildings located in Pettah and the oldest Protestant church in the country is the Wolvendaal Church.

Construction of this cross shaped church building began in 1749, replacing the old Roman Catholic Church of St. Francis. It has become a true monument to the Dutch occupation in Sri Lanka with its ebony carved pews, and floors (even some walls) made of tombstones dating back to the 1600′s and brought from another Dutch church. The name Woolvendaal translates to “valley of the wolves”, so called because the European settlers had mistaken a pack of roaming jackals for wolves.

Christian: St. Lucia’s Cathedral

Another important site is St. Lucia’s Cathedral, located in Kotahena (Colombo 13) and the seat of Colombo’s Archdiocese. Originally built in 1760 to Gothic architectural styling and modeled after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, it is one of the oldest and largest churches in the city and is truly an impressive site. I unfortunately could not visit St. Lucia’s during this trip and hope to chronicle it another day. Read my article “St. Lucia’s Cathedral”.

Goto main Colombo page: The city of Colombo

References:
1. “Religion in Sri Lanka”, Wikipedia
2. “Gangaramaya Temple official website”, www.gangaramaya.com
3. “A brief history of the Colombo Grand Mosque”, www.rootsweb.ancestry.com
4. “St. Lucia’s Cathedral official website”, www.stlucy.lk