Written on December 10, 2010 at 3:00 AM by Lasith

Yapahuwa Rock Fortress

Filed under Pre-Colonial era (pre-1500) {no comments}

Location: Kurunegala District, North Western Province
Date of visit: 30th November 2010

Today’s trek took me to visit one of the country’s most printed and circulated lion’s, the Yapahuwa Lion printed on Sri Lanka’s ten rupee bill. Yapahuwa, pronounced Yappawwa, is an ancient rock fortress that served as capital to King Buvanekabahu I (reigned 1272–1284) for nearly a decade during part of the Kingdom of Dambadeniya in what was called Mayarata. Today all that remains of its former glory is a magnificent stone carved staircase and entranceway. The village of Yapahuwa is quite remote and is best accessed from the town of Maho, Mahawwa in Sinhalese, about 4 km North-West.

Getting There

If using public transportation, Maho is best accessed by train from Colombo or alternatively, as I chose, a bus from Kurunegala for LKR 50. Once in Maho, you need a tuk-tuk to Yapahuwa that could be rented for about LKR 200. On the return journey however, buses from Maho are sporadic and to reach Kurunegala your best bet is catching a bus coming from Galgamuwa or Anuradhapura at the Daladagama Junction about 2 km from Maho. The return tuk-tuk from Yapahuwa should cost about LKR 300 to the junction on the Kurunegala – Anuradhapura road.

During my visit, the weather was uncooperative with heavy rain and I didn’t have the chance to explore as much as I would have liked. On clear day, I recommend climbing to the top of the rock to enjoy its views and also see remains of an ancient Stupa. At the bottom of the rock, look out for a cave temple featuring thirteenth century paintings and Buddha statues. If the temple is locked, find the head monk who would be happy to let you in. Foreigners are expected to make a donation of LKR 500 to visit the premises.

For a good nights hotel stay, I recommend the Yapahuwa Paradise Resort that is only a short drive from the Fortress ruins. Its one of the few resort hotels in the Kurunegala District and is certainly a beautiful hotel property.

Thirteenth Century Rock Fortress

In 1215 South Indian forces led by King Kalinga Magha invaded the great Sri Lankan capital of Polonnaruwa, assassinating the reigning King Parakramapandu. Kalinga Magha continued to rule Polonnaruwa till 1236 and is described in the Culmavansa, the ancient Sri Lankan chronicle, as a tyrannical ruler who persecuted natives and pillaged their property. Many Sinhalese thus migrated further South of Rajarata, the traditional Northern seat of native power in Lanka. Eventually a resistance emerged out of a few impenetrable fortresses nearby, and Yapahuwa is said to be one of these. It was first occupied by a Senapathi, or nobleman, by the name Subha. In ancient Pali, the name Yapahuwwa translates to ‘Subapabbatha’, meaning “fortress of Subha”.

The fortress was built around a rock rising about 90 metres, half that of the more popular Sigiriya, and was well fortified against enemy forces. Several of its ancient defenses are still visible today, most notably its ornamental stairway whose narrow steps need to me maneuvered sideways. Historians believe it was intentionally designed as such to prevent a hasty ascend, allowing soldiers on top time to arm and defend against an enemy onslaught.

Kingdom of Dambadeniya in Mayarata

While King Kalinga Magha ruled in Polonnaruwa, a key leaders of the Sinhalese resistance was Vijayabahu III. In 1220 King Vijayabahu he setup his kingdom in Dambadeniya, in the area called Mayarata at the time. Two years later, he successfully recovered the Buddha’s sacred Tooth Relic from Rajarata and installed in a newly constructed temple within his land.

Nearly half a century later in 1273, the fourth King to rule Mayarata, Buvanekabahu I, amid threats of another South Indian attack decided to relocate his citadel to the more secure Yapahuwa fortress. There, King Bavanekabahu built a magnificent Temple of the Tooth atop its ornate third staircase. Unfortunately, the fortified town served as capital for the shortest period in Sri Lankan history and nearly a decade later in 1284 was sieged by Pandya Kings from South India. The King was slain and the Tooth Relic as well as other riches were taken to Madura, India.

Sri Lankan Ten Rupee Bill

In 1991 Sri Lanka’s 10 rupee bill, in circulation since 1982 with an image of the Kandyan Temple of the Tooth, was redesigned featuring one of the Yapahuwa Lion. This bill is still in circulation though likely to be discontinued for use of a coin introduced in 2009.

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