The Sacred City of Kandy

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Location: Kandy, Central Province
Date of visit: 31st October 2010

Today’s destination is Kandy — Capital of Sri Lanka’s hill country, tucked away in a valley within it. The country’s second largest city has played a significant role in its history, having warded off foreign invasions for over two centuries.

History

In 1592 “Maha Nuwara” (Kandy in English) ascended to became Sri Lanka’s last independent Kingdom and served as home to nine generations of Sinhalese monarchs while the Portuguese (and later Dutch) occupied half the island. The hill country was safe haven for several Lankan populations which relocated from coastal areas during Portuguese rule, one marked by persecution. Thus Kandy remained the last bastion of Sinhalese culture until finally surrendering itself to the British in 1815. The “Sacred City of Kandy” has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage cultural site since 1988.

Walking Through Town

This album doesn't have photosMy trip commenced with a 1 hour ride from Kurunegala. The air-conditioned “Intercity” express bus i took cost LKR 100, alternatively a departure from Colombo should cost you LKR 250. I made my first stop at the Sri Dalada Maligawa (Maligawa) or The Temple of the Tooth. The Maligawa compound used be Royal Palace grounds of old Kandyan Kings and is presently the country’s most prominent Buddhist Temple, housing a relic of the Buddha’s left canine. Given its significant cultural and touristic importance, I have chronicled it in a separate post. Please read “Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa)”.

Thankfully the weather was cooperative, giving me the opportunity to walk through the city and enjoy its sights and sounds. The streets of Kandy are dotted by many interesting artifacts, ranging from pre-colonial monasteries or “devales” to colonial-era monuments. The most interesting I encountered was an old fountain situated outside the Maligawa compound, depicting five figures in various poses. Its attached plaque indicated it was erected in 1875 by the Coffee Planters of Ceylon as a gift to the visiting Prince of Whales. I also explored the local marketplace which was buzzing with local vendors selling their produce at the “Sunday Pola”.

Kandy Lake

For a nice escape from the busy city streets I recommend a stroll along the Kandy Lake, situated besides the Temple of the Tooth. This artificial Lake was built on the backs of slaves in 1807 by the last Sinhalese monarch, King Sri Wickrema Rajasinghe, and had come under considerable controversy.The King’s advisors believed it a waste of national resources converting useful paddy fields into a large ornamental lake, especially at a time when the country’s sovereignty was threatened by the British. Enraged by their opposition, the King impaled a hundred of his advisors on the very paddy fields they tried to protect. Today, a walk along the lake is quite calming and a good workout if you complete a full lap around its 2.1 mile perimeter.

WW II War Cemetery

This album doesn't have photosBefore calling it a day, I wanted to visit the Kandy War Cemetery on the outskirts of the city. The cheapest way there is a 10 LKR ride on either the “Panideniya” or “Peradeniya” bus from the Kandy Market. Take it to the “Gatambe” temple about eight stops away, but don’t rely on counting since some might be skipped. Once at the temple look for a road directly opposite with several signs to hotels, including one for the Chaaya Citadel about 7 km away. From there it is a scenic 1 km walk along the Mahaweli River, or alternatively you could take one of the Tuk-Tuk’s available at that intersection. The War Cemetery is a beautifully maintained garden cemetery and the final resting place for about 200 veterans of WW II.

Ceylon, as Sri Lanka was known at the time, was a key strategic outpost for the allied forces of WW II. After the fall of Singapore to the Empire of Japan in 1942, allied garrisons in Ceylon were further fortified fearing an attack. In April, Japan did attack the ports of Colombo, Trincomalee and Batticaloa. Although the allies successfully defended Ceylon, it was at the cost of heavy casualties. Later in 1944, the HQ for South East Asia Command (SEAC) of the allied forces’ were moved to Kandy from India. The War Cemetery is a small reminder of the lives lost in WW II and is currently maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC).

Restaurant Shout-outs

For lunch I stopped at a Kandyan classic, the Bakehouse . Located in the middle of the city on Dalada Veediya road, Bakehouse is a great spot for a quick bite. Their delicious Sri Lankan “short-eats” are served fresh if you get there in the early afternoon. I had three items of “short-eats” and a milk to wash it down, which cost me about LKR 150.

My other recommendation is the Fishing Hut Seafood Restaurant, located on the road leading to the Kandy War Cemetery (half way down, on the left). I unfortunately, could not try the food here but its wonderful views are what drew me in and certainly worth a shout-out. With its coconut thatched huts located on the bank of the Mahaweli River, isolated away from the main road, you enjoy meal in the tranquility of nature. I had a lemonade for LKR 150, the average dish was priced at about LKR 500.

Discover More of Kandy

Given Kandy’s rich cultural heritage, I have documented my visits over several posts. Please use the links below to navigate through and discover them yourself:

1. Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa), posted 15th November 2010
2. The Mansion, Kandy, posted 10th October 2010

References: 
1. “Kandy”, Wikipedia
2. “Kandy Lake, Sri Lanka”, www.asiaexplorers.com