Written on November 18, 2010 at 10:30 AM by Lasith

Colombo Fort & Pettah

Filed under Towns {no comments}

Location: Colombo, Western Province
Date of visit: 5th November 2010

I spent Day 1 of my Colombo adventure exploring some of the oldest and most colorful parts of city — Forth and Pettah. But before getting there, I needed my morning coffee and it was the Galle Face Hotel for that.

Galle Face Hotel

Located at the southern end of the Galle Face Green, the Galle Face Hotel is Colombo equivalent to the Langham Hotel in London. Founded in 1864 by four British entrepreneurs, it is the oldest hotel located east of Suez canal and has hosted the likes of Richard Nixon (37th President of the US), Jawaharlal Neru (1st Prime Minister of India), Yuri Gagarin (1st man in space), cricketing legend Don Bradman and many others. Although I visited in the morning, I highly recommend being there later in the day to experience some of their splendid sunset views and its popular tradition of High Tea served every afternoon. As you walk in to the hotel, expect to be greeted by the world’s oldest hospitality industry veteran and doorman, Kottarapattu Chattu (“K.C.”) Kuttan.

Galle Face Green

Having got my dose of caffeine, I was off to the Fort with a walk along the Galle Face Green. The area that is now the Galle Face Green was originally cleared by the Dutch to give their cannons a clear line of fire, when they occupied the Colombo Fort. Later in 1859, the British Governor of Ceylon utilized the Greens for horse racing and a golf course. Today the Greens are a popular rendezvous spot and a public park used by joggers, walkers and kite flyers.

Colombo Fort

Photo doesn't existThe Colombo Fort has a rich and diverse history [read my post on the The City of Colombo to learn more] and today has evolved into a wonderful mix of colonial and modern. The best such example staring you in the face as you walk in from Galle Road is the backdrop of skyscrapers, most notably the twin World Trade Center towers, while up front of you are facing the Neo-Baroque style Old Parliament Building (now housing the Presidential Secretariat) built in 1930. Explore Canal Row to Church Street, and you will notice several British Colonial era buildings amidst more modern office blocks.

One of the most notable is the large red Cargills & Millers building located on the intersection of Sir Baron Jayatilaka Mawatha and Canal Row. William Miller and David Cargill started their general imports and wholesale business in the Colombo Fort back in 1844 and is one of the oldest retail stores in the country. Today Cargills is one of the country’s largest consumer goods and retail chains, owning the rights to several brands including that of KFC. Not far, on York Street, you will find another Colombo classic– The, over a century old, Grand Oriental Hotel. Take the time to have a meal at the Harbour Room restaurant on its fourth floor and enjoy some wonderful views of the Colombo harbor.

Pettah

Photo doesn't existWalk east of Fort and arrive at Pettah, probably the most vibrant and colorful parts of the city. In Sinhalese called Pitta-Koutuwa, literally translating to Outer Fort, Pettah is known for its bustling open air bazaars and markets. You name it and your will find it in Pettah, with each thoroughfare having its own specialty — Gabo’s Lane and 5th Cross St specialize in Ayurvedic medicines, while jewelery stores line 2nd Cross St and Sea St.

If you end up on prince street, be sure to visit the Dutch Museum which was originally the 17th century residence of the Dutch Governor. Pettah is also of the most ethnically mixed parts of the city and the streets are dotted with several interesting Mosques, Hindu Kovils, Churches and Buddhist Temples. The beautiful, red and white candy-striped, Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque is a popular tourist destination and provided me some wonderful photographs. I will cover more on the mosque and other religious sites I visited throughout Colombo in my post titles Religion through Colombo’s lens, please read that.

Fort & Pettah are generally safe during the day. However general safety tips apply — travel with a friend (specially women) and be vigilant of pickpockets. Parts of Fort are closed off to the public due to several government offices in the vicinity, be sure to carry your passport or National ID Card (NIC).

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