The City of Colombo

Location: Colombo, Western Province
Date of visit: 5th – 9th November 2010

An Ancient Trading Hub

Photo doesn't existThis week I packed my bags and headed to the country’s main commercial hub, Colombo. A city with a rich and diverse history going back over 2000 years, Colombo was well known to Roman, Arab and Chinese traders who used its natural harbor as a trading hub. As early as the 8th century AD Arab traders started settling in Colombo, wanting to control the East-West trading routes as well as those with the Sinhalese kingdoms. One of the more notable Arab visitors was the famed traveler from Morocco, Ibn Batuta (1304 – 1369), who visited Colombo in the 14th century and referred to Sri Lanka as Kalanpu. Today, ancestors of these Arab settlers make Sri Lanka’s Muslim Moor community.

Portuguese Fort

The Portuguese, led by explorer Dom Lourenço de Almeida, arrived on Sri Lanka in 1505. With primary interests in sourcing the the island’s cinnamon crops along the coast, the Portuguese singed a treaty with the Lankan Monarch, King Parakramabahu VIII of Kotte (reigned 1484–1508), granting them full autonomy along coastline in return for naval protection. They soon expelled Colombo’s Muslim population and in 1517 constructed a Fort in the area that is now Colombo 1. Gradually the Portuguese expanded their control to the entire Western coastline, setting up Colombo as their administrative capital.

Dutch East India Company

The Dutch were brought in nearly a century later in 1638 by the Kandyan King Rajasinghe II (reigned 1635 – 1687), recruiting their support in his war against the Portuguese in return for a monopoly on Sri Lanka’s trade goods. After several battles the Portuguese strongholds gradually fell to the Kandyan and Dutch armies, and in the 1656 the fort in Colombo was finally also captured. The Dutch continued to control the country’s cinnamon plantations and Western coastline for over a century, setting up Colombo as their administrative capital of maritime provinces under the Dutch East India Company. The area today known as Cinnamon Gardens, which houses the Colombo Town Hall, is so called due to its former Dutch plantations.

Capital of the British Crown Colony of Ceylon

The British captured Colombo in 1796, initially using it as a military outpost. In 1815 when the British captured the last remaining Sinhalese Kingdom in Kandy, Colombo first ascended to become the capital of the Crown Colony of Ceylon. Later in 1870 the British further developed the original Dutch Fort, building breakwaters and a moat as present today. They also built civilian buildings and infrastructure around the Fort, giving rise to the current City of Colombo.

A Legacy of Cultural Diversity

Unlike Sri Lanka’s other city, Kandy, Colombo has experienced centuries of rule by three colonial powers leaving a colorful legacy of cultural diversity. Colombo today is a mix of old and new and I highly recommend a walk through the bustling bazaars and old neighborhoods taking in its sights. I have documented my visit to Colombo in series of posts, please use the links below to navigate through and discover them yourself.

1. Focus on Wildlife at The Colombo Zoo, posted 26th March 2011
2. St. Lucia’s Cathedral, posted 28th December 2010
3. 12 stops on the Colombo gastronomic tour, posted 10th December 2010
4. Religion through Colombo’s lens, posted 21st November 2010
5. The beach at Mt. Lavinia, posted 20th November 2010
6. Viharamahadevi Park & Independence Square, posted 20th November 2010
7. Colombo Fort & Pettah, posted 18th November 2010
8. Colombo Natural Museum, posted 16th October 2010